Galicia, an autonomous region on Spain’s rugged northwestern coast, is home to ancient relics, pagan myths and a vibrant, living history unlike anywhere else in the world.

KIran Herbet

I wish I would have known more about the “vibrant, living history” of the Camino before I left. The research I did was mainly about the different routes and the Christian significance. I was so busy researching how to negotiate the foreign countries and walk the Camino that I didn’t think to look into the “everydayness” of the area. The books I read didn’t speak to the Celtic influence on the region. As one of the seven Celtic Nations, Galicia is home to a whole world that arrived before the Christians. Imagine.

I had the pleasure of witnessing a pagan ceremony known as Queimada, or Burn. The gentleman performing the ceremony is known as a “meiga” or witch. True story. Apparently his grandmother was a meiga but none of her children wanted to learn the art. The gentleman did not want the healing practices to fade, so he is now carrying on the tradition. BBC Travel says that Queimada “refers to both an alcoholic drink comprised of Galician augardente, sugar, lemon, cinnamon and coffee beans, as well as the accompanying ritual of musicians chanting spells.” Every now and then throughtout the ritual, I asked Stephanie what the witch was saying. She passed on bits and pieces, but said it was hard for her to understand the meiga because he spoke so fast and with “th” lisp. Ultimately, I learned that when the concoction was lit on fire, the bright blue flame warded off evil spirits and infused me with magical powers. How cool is that! Beware.

The ceremony was magical. We were at the tip of Finisterre in a semi-circle facing the endless water and the setting sun. The maiga had a deep, resonant, hypnotic voice. At one point we were asked to repeat something after him. I have no idea what I was saying. Neither did Stephanie, but we were all taken over by the magic of the moment and the magic potion that we tasted.

There’s an old Galician saying: “Eu non creo nas meigas, mais habelas, hainas” which translates to: “I don’t believe in witches, but they do exist”. It is hard to deny that there is an other-wordly presense on the Camino and throughout Galicia. Maiga or God. You will feel the Power.

Note: I videotaped the ceremony, but it wouldn’t upload. I will happily share it with you at any time. Maybe you can tell me what the maiga is saying!

Note: http://www.bbc.com/travel/story/20131203-where-is-the-seventh-celtic-nation

Note: quote credit: https://www.caminocomfort.com/2016/10/witches-of-galicia/

Note: “Meiga” is the word for witch in Galicia. In all other regions of Spain a witch is referred to as a “Bruja”.

Note: Celtic picture credit https://www.pinterest.com/pin/197102921167211098/?lp=true